History Of Spam

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The Spam Museum - Austin, MN

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In a "Talk of the Town" profile published in The New Yorker , Hormel met writer Brendan Gill over noontime drinks, during which Gill "got the distinct impression that being responsible for Spam might be too great a burden on any one man. The budget-friendly meat has enjoyed a recent upswing on the American mainland in part thanks to rising meat costs and a floundering economy: When the recession hit in early , Spam saw its sales jump 10 percent compared to the previous year. A CBS News report noted that the increased numbers were seemingly accompanied by a cultural shift: Even consumers who continued to purchase expensive organic vegetables were adding cans of Spam to their pantries. A quick search of Spam recipes from the '60s reveals dishes like Spam upside-down pie ; and Spam sandwiches topped with baked beans.

Today, its sometimes-kitsch factor is a point of pride, for both Hormel and Spam fans: You can show your affection for Spam with everything from Hormel-authorized T-shirts reading "I think, therefore I Spam" to crocheted, cat-shaped Spam musubi available for purchase, naturally, on Etsy. Here's a look back at how Spam first got canned, why it's currently beloved in Hawaii and South Korea, and why Spam remains on many restaurant menus today. The town of Austin, Minnesota founded: occupies just under 12 square miles near the state's southern border, with 24, residents as of the census. It's also home to a street called Spam Boulevard, a restaurant dubbed Johnny's Spamarama, and still more restaurants serving dishes like the "Spam De' Melt" a grilled cheese stuffed with Spam, bacon, and sour cream.

Hormel founded his namesake slaughterhouse and meatpacking facility there in , after spending years working in Chicago slaughterhouses. George A. A car bears the name of the George A. By , George's son, Jay Hormel, took over as president after serving in World War I , but the product that would best effect Hormel's bottom line wouldn't be invented until eight years later. In her book Spam: A Biography , author Carolyn Wyman identifies Hormel's predecessor to Spam as canned pork luncheon meat: Discerning deli-case shoppers would order slices of the canned lunchmeat, shaved off by butchers from their six-pound forms.

Jay Hormel set out to design a product appropriate for home use by the consumer, which could be trademarked by the Hormel company and available in smaller, family-friendly sizes. According to current Spam brand manager Nicole Behne, there's no one Hormel team member credited with inventing the final ingredient blend, but food historians identify Julius Zillgitt as one Hormel employee who experimented with the original ounce can size.

Zillgitt and his colleagues eventually discovered that canning the pork in a vacuum prevented the meat from sweating inside the can, a process that took "a good many years," Hormel later told The New Yorker. From top to bottom: Labels from Spam's debut, , the s, and That recipe, using pork shoulder once considered an undesirable byproduct of hog butchery , water, salt, sugar, and sodium nitrate for coloring remained unchanged until , when Hormel began adding potato starch to sop up the infamous gelatin "layer" that naturally forms when meat is cooked.

According to Behne, the recipe change was purely an aesthetic choice: "It looks a lot better now when you open the can. Although lore behind the name Spam varies, Hormel himself claimed the product was named for a combination of the words "spice" and "ham," despite the fact that neither ingredient appears in Spam. The confusion has led some to speculate that Spam is an acronym for "Shoulder of Pork And Ham," but company line gives Kenneth Daigneau, the brother of a Hormel VP, credit for naming the product. As Hormel tells it, he launched a naming contest for the new product during a New Year's Eve party, when Daigneau spit out "Spam" as if "it were nothing at all," Hormel told Gill.

Soldiers in a U. Army Air Force unit during World War II named their camp "Spamville" in tribute to the product; a can of Spam bearing a "special economy label" during wartime. While housewives in the late '30s soon grew accustomed to the idea of unrefrigerated meat, the brand didn't make its global mark until World War II, when the U. Hormel's figures put the number at million pounds of Spam sent abroad to both American and Allied soldiers. As troops started to complain about eating Spam or some other canned meat variant for as many as three meals a day, Hormel faced an unexpected anti-Spam backlash.

In his New Yorker interview, Hormel revealed to Gill that he kept a "Scurrilous File" collecting hate mail from American GIs, in which "he dumps the letters of abuse that are sent to him by soldiers everywhere in the world. Hormel told us, 'they ought to have eaten the bully beef we had in the last war. During WWII, Spam's reach made its way to England and the countries of the Asian Pacific, where rationing and the presence of American troops saw the meat become a menu staple. Laudan, who grew up in postwar Britain, has written about how deep-fried Spam fritters "turned up regularly for school lunches… one more in the series of horrors produced by the school cooks" in England.

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